When I have fleuss bzaf…

fleuss, darija word meaning money

bzaf, darija word meaning a lot

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I always imagined that when I grew up, I would spend my days writing and reposing in small coastal town in Italy. And while I think I’m unlikely to ever embrace adulthood, I seem to have arrived at some variation on my dream. Here, in Morocco, we repose frequently  and the coast is delightful. And one day, when I have fleuss bzaf, I shall summer in Oulidia.

This weekend, my friend Barbara and I decided to escape from El Jadida. Unfortunately, it seems that every time I hang laundry to dry, it rains. And of course, my clothes flapped happily on my terrace the night before our day trip to Oulidia. Luckily, our adventurous spirits weren’t as damp as my shirts.

Oulidia is about 75KM south of El Jadida and the coastal views become something spectacular just about 10KM outside of my new hometown. We hired a driver for the day for a decent price. I negotiated the cost down a bit, but a few days later I’m convinced I got taken for a bit of a ride (ha!). Chifur Abdullah was a fun character, though, and one with friends everywhere along our journey. We stopped several times so that Abdullah could hop out of the car to greet everyone from family members to police-officer friends.

The trip was an hour down a narrow two-lane road with an almost constant seaside view. And as soon as we arrived in Oulidia, I understood why so many Marrakchis love this little town. Oulidia’s beach is enclosed by cliffs, spectacular with the rough sea crashing into them. The beach was very clean and expansive – had the weather been a little nicer, I might never have left. While we paused to take some pictures, a man proffered oysters, clams, and sea urchin. Apparently, Oulidia is the oyster capital of Morocco. Whether it was a smart idea to swallow roadside shellfish, I don’t know. I didn’t pause to consider this. Still, I don’t regret my hasty decision. I didn’t try the sea urchin because I haven’t a clue how to eat it. A reason to go back, I suppose.

We dined at L’Araignee, a restaurant that’s existed since at least 1998. My Lonley Planet: Morocco is a bit out of date. Oops. Anyway, I imagine that you could find a cheaper restaurant on the bay that would serve equally delicious food, but again, I have no regrets. Perhaps the strangest part about the meal was the fact that the patio was filled with French tourists drinking wine at lunch (!!).  While El Jadida supposedly has a French population, I haven’t met many non-Moroccans since I arrived.

On the way home we stopped at a farm stand we’d spied on the trip down. For about 8 dhs, I got all the veggies I could carry. Almost as soon as we climbed into the car with our vegetables, my camera battery died. Just as well since that’s when the real downpour began.

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Categories: fulbright, Morocco, wanderings | Tags: , , , , , , | 3 Comments

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3 thoughts on “When I have fleuss bzaf…

  1. lauren

    i have to admit, the term fleuss bzaf, upon my phonetic attempts of pronunciation as I read your blog entry out loud to lil kate belski as she did her laundry, didn’t conjure up the image of a lot of money, but more some sort of indigestion. oh the limits of my germanic ear! i need languages bzaf! xoxo

  2. helen

    i lovvvve these. may we all be blessed with realized dream-variations! woot.

  3. miara hassan

    mrs. erin welcome to our country morocc.enjoy the life in a developing country.of course, if u have fleuuss bezaf in morocco you can do many things.

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